Retreat at the Ranch

Rancho la Puerta, a luxury wellness resort in the Baja region of Mexico, revives and reboots the mind, body and spirit, making for an unforgettable getaway with memories that will last a lifetime.


After months of back-to-back deadlines, you could say that I needed a vacation. Badly. So when I got an invitation to visit Rancho La Puerta, a resort nestled in the hills and valleys in Tecate, Mexico, it was just the ticket I was hoping for.

Little did I know just how different Rancho La Puerta was from the average Mexican getaway. Instead of the usual crowded pools and long buffet lines, the intimate resort is dedicated to wellness, to helping guests relax and recharge through a variety of classes and workshops (that of course, includes plenty of spa time and delicious cuisine). Lovingly dubbed by guests as “the Ranch,” Rancho La Puerta attracts visitors from all across the country, and from Houston, it’s a short flight to San Diego and a quick bus ride across the border.

I would never have known that the city existed around the Ranch unless I hadn’t passed through on the drive in. The lush, green grounds house hacienda-style villas, which are newly renovated and complete with gorgeous views of the hills or one of the resort’s four pools. Immediately, I was truly able to unplug from the rest of the world, especially since the resort only offers Wi-Fi and television in a few select lounges and the lobby.

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On that first day, I received a folder that detailed the week’s activities and events; I had chosen to visit during a special Pilates Week. Every single day, there were activities from 6 a.m. to 8 p.m.; there were so many options that often I wished I had a time machine so I could try them all. Since science hasn’t made my Back to the Future dreams a reality yet, I took a deep breath and reminded myself that I was also supposed to take this time to slow down. Here’s how I reinvigorated my mind, body and spirit in just one week.

MIND

It’s always hard for me to shut my mind off, but at the Ranch I only had myself to focus on—and no smartphone in sight—so it felt a little easier to let go. Being an artist by nature, I loved the creative outlets at the ranch, which complemented all of the physical activity.

MEDITATION AND HEALING 
At Rancho La Puerta, there’s no shortage of activities for decompressing and clearing your head. Guided meditation and yoga are obvious choices, but for a unique and tranquil experience, try Sound Healing. A guide plays sounds from large, resonant crystal bowls to help you completely relax and lull you into a stress-free state. At least half of the class participants dozed off midway through the session (which is fine as long as you have a friend who will poke you if you start snoring), but everyone came out of it feeling rejuvenated.

ARTISTIC ENDEAVORS
The ranch invites artists and writers to help guests flex their creative muscles. Take a watercolor, sketch, jewelry-making or sculpture class to create your own custom souvenir, which is a nice break from physical activities midday or a good way to unwind after dinner. While I visited, memoirist Larry Grobel (known for his books Conversations with CapoteAl Pacino and The Art of the Interview), led writing workshops that helped attendees dig deep and jot down short, but poignant pieces about their lives.

LIFESTYLE LECTURES 
During my stay, a few other special guests gave talks on a variety of health-related subjects. Dr. Rubin Naiman, a clinical assistant professor of medicine at the University of Arizona, lectured on how to overcome sleep problems and opened our minds on the science and psychology of dreams. Professor Emerita Beverly Whipple spoke about sexual health and intimacy in a really relatable way.

BODY

In 2016, I started a fitness journey that included learning Pilates to stay healthy and prevent any issues that may come up as I age. Choosing to visit during Rancho La Puerta’s Pilates Week—offered several times throughout the year—was a no-brainer. In addition to the numerous Pilates classes offered, there were so many other workout options—some of which I’d never even heard before! To fuel my active schedule, I ate delicious food, and didn’t skip breakfast once (like I’m guilty of doing at home).

SWEAT SESSIONS 
There are too many cardio-centered classes to name, but if you want to get your heart rate pumping, Zumba, Cycling or Cardio Drum Dance—where you work your entire body while banging on giant barrels to energizing music—are some great options. After all of that action, cool off in the pools for a few laps, or take it further with a challenging water aerobics class. Even though I had trouble staying afloat and splashed around quite a bit, it was fun because I had taken it with a new friend, Ann Eshabarr, a dance teacher from San Francisco. She summed the exercise program up at the Ranch quite nicely: “The Ranch is like a well-oiled machine. They have made it very easy to navigate the classes even though the property is huge. I learned to take off in the morning with clothing for hiking, swimming, dance and Pilates so I was prepared for everything. I would be walking around and see a class I liked and drop right in!”

MIND/BODY BLISS
Jennifer Lee Ho, a teacher trained in many different movement modalities from the Bay Area, led Pilates Week. I took two mat classes from her every morning—she, like many of the instructors at the Ranch, exuded a motivating, warm energy—and learned a lot about pelvic stability. (The Pilates studio at the Ranch also offers classes on the Pilates Reformer and other equipment.) A lot of my fellow Ranch-goers attended classes dedicated to stretching and tried Feldenkrais, which, similar to Pilates reinforces the mind-body connection.

ON THE MENU 
The Ranch’s all-inclusive program provides breakfast, lunch and dinner, all made with fresh, local ingredients; they even offer cooking classes. Like me, Jennifer has a love for food: “Though fitness is a priority in my life, eating properly (most of the time) is my other joy,” she told me. “It was fantastic to sit down for three organic and tasty meals a day with other interesting guests from all over the world.” Breakfast and lunch are buffet style, while dinner has service. At dinner, Ranch veterans let us in on a secret—you can sample both of the entrée options instead of choosing just one. I’m still dreaming about the fresh fish tacos we had for lunch one day and an amazing eggplant parmesan that was served for dinner.

SPA SERVICES
There are separate spas for both women and men, along with two other treatment centers, so there’s no excuse not to treat yourself after a couple days of working out. The spa offers a wide range of massages and facials; I tried the classic Ranch massage with some aromatherapy one late afternoon, a perfect prelude to dinner. The women’s and men’s centers also have lockers for reservation so you can stash your belongings instead of lugging things around or having to return to your room.

SPIRIT

I think the reason the Ranch has been thriving for so long is because of its lingering effect on you, even long after you’ve left. I met so many people who make it a tradition to visit every few years, and even make it a spot for special occasions like weddings, anniversaries and reunions. Mothers who visited the Ranch decades ago return with their daughters to relive the magic all over again. Here’s why.

THE SENSE OF COMMUNITY I think all the classes, from creative to fitness, help people open up. There isn’t a feeling like you’re being judged or a reason to feel self-conscious, like the way you might feel at a large gym, for example. Everyone is there to learn and share. Ann agrees: “I loved the sense of community with my fellow Ranchers. This took place mostly at mealtime, and I found it very interesting and humorous how most guests would tell you how many years they’ve been coming. It was a source of pride. Just for the record, five was a low number. Since I was a rookie, everybody was happy to help me acclimate.”

BONDS THAT LAST I traveled alone, but it was easy to make fast friends like I did with Ann and Jennifer. Many visitors travel with a friend or spouse, but I also met some larger groups, like 13 women who came together to celebrate a friend’s 50th. What was most surprising to me at first was meeting people who first met at the Ranch and now make it their tradition to come back together. Now that I’ve experienced what Rancho la Puerta offers, I understand it better—it’s an experience unlike any other that can tie you to strangers, and together, you forge something new. I will never forget all the laughter with Ann and trying so many new classes with her, nor will I forget the wisdom Jennifer generously imparted. See you soon at the Ranch, Ann and Jennifer! 


Originally published in the Summer 2017 issue of H Texas.

Edited by Amanda Altman. Photo courtesy of Rancho La Puerta. 

The Caribbean's Best-Kept Secret

Cap Juluca, an ultra-posh, secluded resort in the heart of Anguilla, is the stuff that dreams are made of.


Confession: I had never really heard of Anguilla until recently, when I had the opportunity to visit Cap Juluca, an award-winning luxury resort that’s like a well-kept secret. It’s easy to understand why it seems like that for many reasons. 

Year-round, the temperature in Anguilla is approximately 80°F, making it the perfect escape during the winter months or the harsh, humid Houston summers. The white sand haven (or heaven—visit, and you can decide for yourself) famously—but discretely—hosts celebrities, athletes and Fortune 500 CEOs. 

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Add to this Cap Juluca, and it's exceptional staff—they make your stay feel seamless and have you feeling ultra-pampered. Many of the employees have worked there for years or have other family members who were employed by the resort when it first opened more than 20 years ago. 

Anguilla is an English-speaking island in the Caribbean, a short boat ride from St. Martin’s. To get there, it’s common to fly into St. Martin’s first and take a ferry to the island, where a taxi will take you to your final destination. The British territory is 16 miles long and only 3 miles wide at its widest point; Cap Juluca was founded in 1988 on the southwestern side of the island, on the crescent-shaped Maundays Bay. Since then, it has been continuously recognized as one of the top resorts and hotels in the world by Condé Nast Traveler, U.S. News & World Report and Brides magazines to name a few; while I was there, it certainly seemed to be the spot for weddings, vow renewals and honeymoons.

In the midst of holiday stress and end-of-the-year deadlines, the timing seemed right for an escape. I decided to pack my bags and jet off to Cap Juluca, which quickly proved to be just the place where I could unplug for a short while. 

Luxury Lodging

All of the 15 villas that house the guestrooms and suites are picture-perfect. The buildings, stark-white against the perpetual blue skies and flanked by lush palms, are rendered in the Moorish style of architecture that lends a hand in creating an exotic atmosphere throughout the resort.

There are 70 rooms, comprised of guestrooms and suites, some with private pools. My beachfront room was outfitted with a king-size bed, a well-stocked minibar, a private terrace and best of all, direct access to the beach from the terrace. The room had a certain chic, island-take on Moroccan accents in its furniture and textiles. The friendly and informative staff told me that Linda Hickox,
one of the owners, handpicks all of the linens and décor in the rooms. For those of us who can’t completely disconnect or are traveling with young ones, each guestroom is also equipped with a flat screen TV, a DVD player and Wi-Fi (that even extends all the way to the beach). 

Columns and rounded arches create a spectacular frame of the bay and beyond from the terrace. I spent most of my mornings lounging there in a spa robe with a good book after devouring a room service breakfast. 

Soaking it Up

The allure of complete R&R at Cap Juluca is the stuff of dreams. From basking under the sun and dipping into the teal waters of Maundays Bay to being lulled into deep sleep by the sounds of the gentle ocean waves right outside your bedroom doors, it would be completely understandable if you wanted to pack up your life and somehow move to the resort. Relaxing on the quiet, secluded beach was a tranquil experience made sweeter by the complimentary sorbet delivered to all guests along the bay every afternoon.

If simply soaking up the breezes isn’t enough for you, the in-room massages or one of the many spa services—including aromatherapy treatments, body polishes, manicures, facials and waxing—at Cap Juluca Spa Services can’t be beat. I opted for an in-room massage, which was a wonderful way to begin my trip. 

Speaking of the spa experience, one thing I wanted to take back with me from my room was the ultra-zen bathroom—but just imagine carrying that through customs. The bathroom was large and spacious, with a great soaking tub and a well-kept, private solarium that let in plenty of natural light and color. If being at Cap Juluca transported me to another world, then the bathroom was a whole other realm—trust me, it’s an experience. If you happen to book the Jonquil Suite, which I had the fortune of touring, prepare to be mind-blown by the luxe tubs, marble surfaces and shower.

Sea and Do

Personally, I couldn’t get tired of lounging by the pristine beach, but Cap Juluca does offer a variety of activities for the more adventurous type. To see more of Anguilla’s natural beauty, chartering a boat ride is a must—I had the pleasure of going on two excursions, one at sunset and one in the afternoon. Aside from lying out on the sand, having a picnic with champagne and rum punch on a gently rocking boat is a pretty awesome experience; fresh air and misty, salty water included. Anguilla is a pretty flat island, but certain parts rise above the water, the craggy cliffs revealing stone streaked with bands of yellow and red. Ask the captain to show you Sandy Island and Prickly Pear Island.

Back at the bay, snorkeling is a fun option; it’s not an uncommon sight to see families by the side of Pimms (one of Cap Juluca’s fine-dining establishments off the water; more on that later) playing in the waves. Scuba, kayaking, windsurfing and waterskiing are other aquatic sports that can be enjoyed in the protected cove, which are all complimentary, by the way. On land, try horseback riding for a small fee, which is a fun couple’s activity. Stay fit at the tennis courts, or get a game of volleyball and basketball going. The fitness center offers a weight room, cardio, Caribbean dance lessons and private training sessions. I couldn’t break away from my lounge chair to try one, but the resort also offers Pilates or yoga sessions on the beach.

Island Eats

Venturing out to Blue is well-worth getting up “early” for. The restaurant is on the beach, looking right out into the Caribbean. I had delicious French toast off the menu, but there is also Continental breakfast, buffet-style dining there. For lunch, I tried the tasty Mahi Mahi wrap; FYI, lunch and drinks can be ordered from any of the staff members at the cabanas that dot the beach.

Maundays Club is a café by day and a lounge by night, just off to the side of the lobby under the great dome. It offers coffee, tea, smoothies and other non-alcoholic beverages when the sun is out, but as it sets, you can enjoy fine wines, cognac and cigars until midnight. One of my favorite moments was teatime in the afternoons, when guests were presented with homemade treats like the crispy biscuits.

Down the stairs from the lobby that lead toward the coast are Spice and Pimms, open-air restaurants right on the water’s edge. Both places have expansive wine lists with extremely knowledgeable staff to back it up. Spice offers tapas-style bites with great cocktails and live entertainment nightly. True to its name, it’s decorated with red- and golden-toned pillows and exquisitely colored glass sconces. 

At Pimms, I had a squid ink pasta topped with clams, mussels and a large crayfish, one of the most memorable entrées I’ve had, ever. Houston foodies will love the fresh seafood offerings and farm-to-table concept, using seasonal ingredients. As with many things about Cap Juluca, the environment makes the experience! The table was pretty close to the edge of the restaurant, and it didn’t bother me one bit to be lightly sprayed by crashing waves on occasion. Where else can you dine with the ocean just a few feet away?

If you are celebrating a special occasion, ask about dining on the beach itself, which is a romantic affair lit by torches. My last meal was with toes buried in the sand, more fresh seafood and amazing company. 

Swept Away

Months later, I’m still dreaming of the fantastic terrace, unforgettable views and the feeling of the Caribbean breeze on boat rides around Anguilla. Cap Juluca made me feel special with their upscale hospitality from the perceptive staff who paid attention to the little details like cool towels and cold sorbet to help you stay refreshed under the brilliant sky. Maundays Bay is a serene place to escape to, but by no means are you isolated from great food and fun activities, which will stay with you long after you’ve boarded that flight home. It’s safe to say that the secret’s out.


Originally published in the Summer 2015 issue of H Texas.

Edited by Amanda Altman. Photo by Nicholas D. Nguyen.

Viva Mahekal!

Mexico is having a moment—and we’re not talking wet t-shirt contests in Cancun. Spring free from your smartphone, and unplug at Playa del Carmen’s newest hot spot, designed to melt away stress, one margarita, massage and Mayan tunnel at a time.


Most of the time, when people hear the words “vacation” and “Mexico,” they think of Cancun, Cozumel, Puerto Vallarta or Cabo. But there’s more fun to be had in Mexico, if you think outside the box. 

Case in point: My recent visit to Playa del Carmen, where I stayed at Mahekal Beach Resort. About 45 minutes south of Cancun, Mahekal has a laidback attitude that’s less “spring break” and more R & R under thatched roofs and bungalows, making it a haven for families and couples alike. The charming resort is built around tropical trees that make it feel like it’s part of the jungle, even though the main street, Fifth Avenue, is just a five-minute walk from the lobby. 

If you need a break from the day-to-day, Mahekal is just the ticket. It was designed as a place to disconnect—leave the e-mails and social media at home. 

Rest Up

Mahekal underwent a transformation in the summer of 2015, adding 74 bungalows to the 122 existing suites and beachfront casitas. Guests can book rooms with three types of views: Garden, Jungle and Ocean. The first two overlook the lush vegetation surrounding the resort, close to the several pools on the grounds and many of the amenities. These rooms are affordable, and are great for large groups and families hoping to book together.

I stayed in an oceanfront palapa, and every night, the sound of the waves rocked me into blissful slumber. Even with the Caribbean beach just steps from the patio (complete with a hammock), a plunge pool right outside my door allowed me to relax in private. 

This might come as a shock, but there are no TVs in any of the rooms. (Don’t worry—if you must catch the latest news or game, you can swing by Boli’s Bar on the resort grounds.) And if for some reason, the water, sun and sand are not enough to distract you, or if you simply have to share a photo of your amazing meal, WiFi is available throughout the resort for the occasional tweet or Instagram post—just remember to #magicalmahekal.

Family Fun

While Mahekal radiates tranquil and sophisticated vibes, it can also be a “base camp” for family outings in between poolside and beach lounging spells. Keep the kids busy by taking a day trip to Tulum or Chichen Itza, outside of Playa del Carmen, to see Mayan archeological sites; book a tour guide to make the trip educational and learn some Mayan vocabulary. Tulum is especially beautiful, located on a cliff that overlooks the ocean. Pack a picnic lunch to eat on the beach below the cliffs; how many chances does one get to eat below ancient temples more than 800 years old? In between Cancun and Playa, there is also Xcaret, a theme park with water, cultural and nature activities fit for all ages.

Once you’re back at the resort, visit the ceramics hut to paint your own Mexican pottery and figurines with the little ones, a perfect, personal souvenir to take home. But don’t worry if the kids (or you) can’t paint in the lines; the fantastic and sweet artists are on hand to help fix problem spots and make your final product look professional before it’s glazed and fired onsite.

Romantic Retreat

Because of its beautiful setting, Mahekal is an amorous backdrop for couples. It has recently become a trendy spot for destination weddings, offering sections of the resort specifically for wedding parties. It couldn’t be any more perfect to get married on the sand and then honeymoon right away. The resort has thought of it all, offering services for flowers, music, photography and more. For couples looking to get away, the Revive Spa or diving adventures through the Vida Aquática Dive Center will hit the spot. 

Playa del Carmen also hosts a number of live music festivals throughout the year, some of which are right on the beach near the resort, so check the calendar before you book. Fifth Avenue is ripe with shops, restaurants and nightlife, where the margaritas are refreshingly ice cold and dancing goes into the wee hours.

Get Wet

Mahekal offers kayaking and paddleboarding at the Vida Aquática Dive Center. Depending on the season, you can go on a fishing tour for tuna, amberjack or marlin. There are two snorkeling packages available, both equally magical; explore the reefs or underwater Mayan tunnels. And as the name implies, you can take diving lessons before booking a tour to swim with the dolphins.

Snorkeling in the reefs opened up a whole new world beyond the pristine beach and humming jungle at Mahekal. Swimming among schools of fish as sea turtles the size of coffee tables drifted by was 100 times better than watching an ocean documentary on National Geographic. Every time a stingray glided through the water, it was a reminder to keep a safe distance from the reef to protect and preserve the delicate ecosystem.

Our group heads into a patch of jungle at the resort for a cooking class.

Our group heads into a patch of jungle at the resort for a cooking class.

Cuisine and Cooking

When booking my stay, I opted for a meal plan to enjoy breakfast and lunch or dinner at the resort; that way, I had the chance to dig into the other fine eateries downtown. La Cueva del Chango (Monkey Cave) has a variety of chilaquiles to sample, and La Fisheria lives up to its name with succulent seafood. But back to the food at Mahekal: Its three restaurants are anything but disappointing. 

Chef José teaching an authentic mayan fish recipe in his native language.

Chef José teaching an authentic mayan fish recipe in his native language.

At Fuego Restaurant y Cantina, you can opt to eat with a view of the beach and the resort’s “Sand Box,” an area for campfires and lounging. The Mexican “farm to fork” meals are prepared over wood-burning flames by Chef Crescenciano Nerey and his team. The man has nearly three decades of experience and is responsible for all the culinary delights at the resort. My first night, I had an unforgettable salad served with a gorgonzola mousse and passion flower vinaigrette to start, and for dinner, Chilean seabass served on a bed of roasted vegetables that was just perfect. Meals at Las Olas Restaurant and Bar and Cocina are not to be missed, either.

For an experience that won’t be forgotten among friends and family, sign up for the Mayan cooking class. Set inside a patch of emerald jungle in the resort is Casita Maya, where I learned some new recipes that were unique to Mayan culture and the Yucatan region. Chef José is Mayan and spoke the language to us while another chef translated. Inside was a fire pit dug into the earth, where we cooked fish in a clay pot under the soil. After all, cooking a meal together and sharing it brings people together.

Rejuvenate and Relax

As if lounging all day by the beach was hard work, Mahekal makes it even easier to unwind with numerous facial and body treatments along with massage options at Revive Spa. Ladies (and gentlemen), the spa also has a full-service salon that could help you look effortlessly glowy just in time for dinner reservations. Just make sure to arrive early to soak in the tranquil Jacuzzi, surrounded by high concrete walls. The ceiling is dotted with incandescent bulbs while the bubbling waters are an ethereal blue that transported me to a whole other plane. 

I had a 50-minute relaxing massage with aromatherapy in the late afternoon that made me melt into the table and nearly doze off. To be fair, my day started with a grueling beginner’s yoga class on the beach, and I had spent the afternoon in Tulum trekking around the ruins. The massage was heaven. Couples can book rub-downs together in a private cabin at the spa or right on the beach.

After spa-ing, stop by Itzi or Boli’s Bar for their specialty, handcrafted cocktails and refreshments. Many of the featured drinks, like the Mango Passion, are inspired by tropical flavors. The Tukan cocktail is also a favorite at the resort; the eye-catching drink is layered in blue, yellow and red liqueurs.  

When it was time to go home, although it was hard to say goodbye to Mahekal, it’s safe to say I felt refreshed and ready to take on my regular life. Of course, I still miss the world-class, friendly staff, who catered to my every whim. Now that I’m thinking about it, I could really use a cold towel and ice-cold margarita—it’s hot in Houston now! Mahekal, I’ll be seeing you again soon.

For more information and to plan your stay, visit www.mahekalbeachresort.com


Originally published in the Summer 2016 issue of H Texas.

Edited by Amanda Altman. Resort photos courtesy of Mahekal Beach Resort. Jungle cooking class photos by Nicholas D. Nguyen.